Frames
- Our standard frames are made of wood; either solid or laminate (plywood) depending on the size. We have two basic standard sizes which cover most requested applications (8" x 10" i.d. and 12" x 21" i.d.). Custom sizes are available upon request.
Mesh
- All the mesh we use is polyester mono-filament mesh. (Silk has not been used in the industries for years. This is the reason why the term Silk-screening is frowned upon.) Mesh coarseness is determined by thread-count.
- We carry many different thread counts (measured in threads-per-inch); each has a different usage or is more suitable for different ink viscosities.
- Thinner inks, such as epoxy and UV, would require a higher thread count to reduce the amount of ink that passes through.
- Thicker inks, like Plastisols, or inks with a large particulate, like metallic flake, require a lower thread count to let more ink through and leave a heavier lay-down.
Emulsion
- Graphic Images uses Autotype's Autosol Classic emulsion for our stencils for resistance to solvents and water.
- The stencil is made by contact exposure. This process involves using the photo-reactive emulsion, a film positive, a very large vacuum frame, and a bright light source.
Special Considerations
- With a clear understanding of your project, we can customize your screen to meet your needs. The last thing we want is to give you a screen that you can't use.
Overall Size
- Sometimes you have to print inside an item such as a metal enclosure. If there's room, we can make that screen.
Metal Edges
- Like above, sometimes there doesn't appear to be enough room to print where you would like, such as in a corner or next to some other immovable item.
- By replacing parts of your wooden frame with thinner metal edges, allowing you to print much closer to your obstacles.
"Extreme" Modifications
- Sometimes replacing a single or even two sides won't get you past that obstacle, or you have to print around an object. In this case we can cut a channel out of the frame or even poke a hole in the screen.
- "Poke a hole in the screen?" Sure, if that's what needs to be done. By reinforcing the mesh around the section with a dimensionally stable mylar, it's perfectly okay to cut small voids from the mesh.
